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What To Do With A Correcting Concealer Palette

August 13, 2015

One concealer does not fix all. It is the rule of the universe, and it’s a bitch. If you’re serious about achieving perfect coverage when you have problematic skin – AKA, adult acne, scarring, hormonal situations, etc. –  you of all people should know that believing in one concealer to magically poof away all of your skin imperfections, is a myth. When suffering from problematic skin, *waves hand*, the familiarity with blemishes and dark acne spots calling for the better and majority part of your face is all too automatic, which also results in the familiarity that your holy grail under-eye concealer will not suffice to cover those unflattering bumps up. Fortunately, on a lighter note, this common phenom falls under the category of corrective concealing, meaning that if you know the color wheel, you know what shade to aim for in order to correct the issue. Now, I’m not saying that any concealer will be able to 100% provide the flawless coverage you’re most likely seeking, at best these differently colored concealers will soften and diffuse the problem spots. But that’s okay, at least they will become less noticeable and that’s what we are aiming for here.

Corrective concealing involves a number of life’s tres terrible complexion assaults. Think broken capillaries, acne spots, scars, bruising, dark under-eye, redness, etc., and in order to be properly disguised demands a neutralizing shade prior to being concealed with a color that matches your foundation. What this does is balance the hyperpigmentation in whatever the issue is, making it easier for the ‘close to foundation colored concealer’ to swoop in and finish up the coverage aspect. Yes, usually it requires two concealers total to do the job. However, if you suffer from multiple complexion issues, have no fear because there are complete corrective palettes on the market that will assist you in whatever needs to be hid.

The best palette for this that I have tried so far is the NYX Color Correcting Concealer that contains 5 corrective shades, and 1 contouring shade. It has a yellow, green, pinkish, purple, light/tan, and dark shade, with each being highly concentrated for good coverage. Let’s take a look at what these colors do at their basic level:

Yellow – A under-eye correction shade that is best suited for those who have blue/purple under-eye areas. For me this shade works perfect as a precursor before applying my regular concealer, this assures that my deeply pigmented blue bags won’t take center stage on my face. This particular shade also camouflages deep red colors and purple bruising as well.

Green – Perfect to balance redness in the skin. Broken capillaries are usually red in nature and by applying a green concealer and blending it out with a sponge prior to foundation will even out that redness instantly. 

Purple – Counteracts yellow undertones in the skin and is also great for those who suffer from yellow-based under-eye areas.

Pinkish – Works the best to cover under-eye problems on fair skin. But, I also found my holy grail dark acne scarring agent in this shade though, I find that it neutralizes the deep pigmentation in those spots the best out of the entire palette.

Light/tan – Can be used as a general concealer on tan to medium skin tones. 

Dark – This is a twoofer. It can work as a contour shade, but it also works as a corrective and regular concealer for medium to dark skin tones.

This palette has been a lifesaver for me. And this is how I go about it: Using the yellow shade, I will take my ring finger and dab the product underneath my eye blending it into the skin going in an outwards motion. To neutralize the acne spots; I take a small brush with the pinkish shade and dab it directly onto the spots. When it’s time for foundation I use a damp sponge to blend my entire face out, and taking that same small brush will take any remaining foundation and apply it directly to the spots, blending it out again with the sponge but in a bouncing motion so it presses right into the skin for optimal coverage.

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